When I lose that functionality I also lose one touch up down operation. If the window goes down from master switch, but won't go up, sounds like a bad contact. So to me the module is receiving the 12v from the switch but not sending any voltage to the motor. I checked all fuses, even 68 relay but still could not find problem, I drove 18 miles in 30 degree weather at nite, got home and was very confused with this truck. I installed a new switch and there is not any power going to the motor. The window went up and down, but the auto function is still off.
You may find that replacing just the motor separate from the lift mechanism regulator is a piece of cake, or it may be impossible. If I'm right, they'll charge you over a hundred dollars for a fix that should be well below that. He bought the window motor thinking it was an easy fix and I put it in for him so that's the only reason it has a new motor. I had this problem on mine so I know what it is, still a pain, and all computer related. The two main power wires I used to jump the motor up and down go into the door module. Had to cut the cable at the top and bottom of the motor that goes to the regulator using long but narrow cutters.
Do you hear any clicking or rattling in the door when you hit the switch? All the other windows work except the drivers front window. There will b 2 brushes on a wire make sure you get the ones that have the wire coming out the back and not the sides. Usually, since they don't remain turned on for very long, there is more of a black residue from the arcing when they turn off, than actual overheating from constant high current. I say they are programed to break. A fuse acts as a safeguard that protects the entire circuit from power surges, and if it blows, then the entire system with fail to receive power.
It just involves resetting the windows. Did all of the above 3 times on my 07. After jump start no Driver window or Pwr locks. Odd, because it worked for the past 2 years with the same fuse removed from the viper alarm. Overheated motors often cause intermittent problems, Benet says. I Have had this problem before and if you have any aftermarket remote car start it scrambles the bcd body control module and whenever you disconnect the battery it will do this also as it causes the computer to get confused and stuck in between modes eventually the car will go back to normal its just a matter of time H3 left a door open over night ran battery down, boosted and then the problem with the driver door and power locks started. If test light does not illuminate, go to next step.
But those wife's are funny critters. Also it has a fuse under the passenger kick panel and in the engine pdc and both are good. However, it's been dry the last couple days. That powdery residue can be cleaned off with very fine sandpaper. You can use the Search function to read old threads on the same topic by clicking on search, then advanced, then type in the terms, like window+stuck or window+regulator, windows+slow, window+switch+contacts+burned, window+motor+gear, use the + sign to narrow the results , and highlight the 80 forum.
If there's no flow, it won't work from either that switch or the master switch When I disabled all the switches in my rig, I had to add jumper wires to each pigtail to get them to work from the master switch, so you might wanna try unplugging the switch and doing the same for that door. I can unplug the connector at the door module which is on the door shell. I also never see any blinking lights on the window switches. Power Window goes down but not up Aside from not working at all, a power window that goes down but not up is the second most common complaint. The sunroof switch for opening the sunroof on the headliner. Is this a simple reset of the computer to fix the problem and how would I do that? Hi fellow H3 owners, this window problem just happened to me, It all started with doing a brake job, new calipers, rotors and. Thinking the module is at fault.
When I went back and connected it, everything worked. The next day I took master control unit out of door disconnected all wires, cleaned pins etc, and put back together, also I took off positive and negative battery cables off battery, cleaned them , put them back on and tightened good, Well , I turned the key and everything worked,? This solution only applies if your window is not using the automatic function, where it lowers completely down by one quick press. Now clip the wires and measure the wires so it will fit snug in the housing and sand down the brushes so they fit smoothly in the top housing, solder the wires together, not too much lead as the wire eats up lead and will get still if you put too much. . Connect master switch assembly connectors C1 and C2. Same issue came up for me suddenly today.
I read that when the battery gets weak then the computer shuts down nonessential electronics based on importance. I reinstalled and my windows and locks worked once again. It's not uncommon at all for them to fail, especially if you've ever left your windows down. Had all the same problems everyone is describing as well as my cruise control not working and the remote start nt working. Perform a continuity test with no power in circuit on both the power and ground wires. Click here to see what may be the problem.