Some rear axles will have a cartridge-type wheel…. So the procedure goes: torque bearing to pre-load, back castle nut off carefully, retighten castle nut hand tight, slowly turn hub and tighten castle nut until you just feel the bearing begin to drag. Balding seems to be more centered than inner although the wear does extend towards inner side as well. These bearings are made to last for many years without needing to be replaced. The only other thing besides a brake problem that we would suggest checking is your alignment.
Just a clarification for anyone who finds this thread on Google. For all these reasons, the landing wheels of an airplane and various racing cars have precision ball bearings in them. Not only does a wheel bearing have to support the entire weight of your vehicle while it is traveling over rough roads, potholes and maybe the occasional curb, they also have to take the lateral forces of corners you take and have to do all that while allowing your wheel to spin at thousands of revolutions per minute. Mind you I have a lot of issues with the car, exhaust, which I had done two years ago, including a muffler, which is now noisy. At very low speeds less than 5 miles per hour you may be able to actually feel these vibrations as your creep along.
Both the surface of the rollers and the race are precision machined to tight tolerances and highly polished to allow the rollers to pass easily over the race with the addition of bearing grease for lubrication and cooling. Proceeded to go and it got even worse. The , measuring the wheel's speed, is also built into the assembly, so when the sensor or the bearing becomes faulty the entire hub assembly must be replaced. Expecially when I would go over a bridge and come off of the hump right after it. I got a wheel bearing replaced last Saturday. I got out and within 15 feet driving forward it sounded and felt as though I was dragging dead weight so to speak so I reversed to go back into my driveway and it sounded like rattling clunking as i did.
They are used on all kinds of vehicles, from bicycles to aircraft and cars. Also, you can try raising your wheels off the ground one at a time and spinning them checking for resistance. If you have a bearing going bad one side should have a noticeable drag, or feel slightly bumpy as it spins. I dont think it is wheel bearing, as ive heard that noise before. Over time the bearing will wear slightly, allowing microscopic pieces of metal into the grease. I doubt it's a tire noise unless you can actually see damage to the tire but anything is possible. It's almost like softly rubbing on metal; light squeaking.
Since your truck has a solid rear axle, if your tire is wobbling badly you may also have other problems inside your differential so we would recommend having a mechanic do the work that understands differentials as well. Beejay- Thank you for asking about your Ford Focus. If the steering knuckle needs to be removed to replace the wheel bearing on your car, you may also need to replace some suspension components like a lower ball joint or tie rod end as these can be damaged during removal if they are old or worn. Especially turning curves, once straightening steering wheel it almost seems to want to go straight. The article was a bit vague on what freely spinig means.
You can replace both bearings at the end of the car that has the suspected bad bearing or even all 4 bearings. Nicole, Thanks for your question about your Explorer. I took to dealer, they said it was a bad tire but did not tell me which one. Or, can I do something else by jacking up the car? Since this could be a safety issue if it happens at speed, we recommend you having your vehicle looked at by a mechanic as soon as possible. Want the best online repair manual?.
It has gotten louder in the last week. And, it seemed to be worse when I turned right. It would still make that knock clicking sound but if I sped up above 45 or 50 it would go away. Clicking sound from the wheels Finally, if you hear a that increases in speed as the vehicle accelerates, this could be a problem with the wheel hub assembly as well. Jon- Thanks for your question about your Ford Freestyle. If the customer overloads the vehicle, bearing damage could be inevitable. Took them about 90 minutes from the time I arrived to me leaving with a fixed truck that included them taking it for a drive to confirm the problem and again to make sure it was running fine after the repair.
A second option would be to find an entire used rear axle at a junkyard and have a shop change the entire unit. I know that bearings can be relied on for hundred thousands of miles. They cant find any signs of a bad bearing but the noise is that of one. With tapered roller bearings, they prevent grinding in the parts that are shifting. You need to run a solvent over the balls and races to remove the grease.
As a rule, if a bearing is bad on one side of the axle, both it and the one on the other side. Since you said it sometimes grabs and jerks the truck left or right we would recommend starting by checking your 4×4 system at the front hubs. No matter what type of bearing you have, bad wheel bearing symptoms are the same. And it sound more like a grinding sound, not roaring. A lot of people think this symptom has to do with unbalanced tires on their vehicle. Or is it this vehicle, which I do not like at all and can't wait to trade in, btw. I have driven it for 200 miles so far and there is still that noise and some sort of shaking when I apply the breaks over 40 mph.
The noise was so odd that I didn't believe it was a bearing. They come in different styles and fit different applications, operate in places like hub assemblies and driveshaft components, and are buried inside the engine and elsewhere. I am at a loss as to what this sound could be. Now, when I accelerate to 50+mph my vehicle seats roughly from side to side. The old driver's side bearing had a lot of rusty looking build up in it and was probably the worst of the 2.